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ELasy Lessons for 
Lace MaKers £i £i 



COPYRIGHTED 1901 



Fancy Stitches Illustrated Showing 
Clearly How to MaKe All Modern Laces 

PUBLISHED FOR THE TRADE 



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MARIE ANTOINETTE AND DUCHESS LACE BRAID MATERIALS. 



SPECIAL ATTENTION 

is called to Stitches for Silk Lace 
which should be made with 
BELDING^S "HAND-SEWING^\ , 
Sizes O, A, B or C, as pref|exred^^^ ;,^,,, 

JUL. 15 1901 

CoPVaiQHT ENTRY 



CLASS XXc Ni» 



ARABIAN BRAID 

made up with the lace stitches done 
in silk is the latest lace work. For 
this braid use BELDING BROS. 
& CO/S CROCHET SILK in 
ecru or cream. 




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Copyright Offica. 






^ Easy Lessons for Lace Makers "^ 



CCOPVRIGHTEO 1 90 I ) 



LACE. 

The making of lace for household and 
dress purposes seems to have become a set- 
tled occupation. There is no such thing 
as lace "going out of style," like precious 
stones lace has ever had a value both intrin- 
sic and sentimental. In families of birth 
and breeding the old lace is handed down 
from generation to generation for hundreds 
of years. Hence in these modern days the 
lace maker should give thought for the 
future and each piece of lace made should 
be so neatly done as to be worthy of passing 
on as an heirloom. 

The making of modern lace offers no dif- 
ficulties to a neat and deft needle-woman, 
neatness of work is absolutely indispens- 
able. 

MATERIALS. 

The first consideration is suitable mater- 
ials. These are threads and braids, and 
they should be the best obtainable, both 
linen, unless silk lace is considered, when 
of course silk braid and thread will be 
used. 

The name of different braids is not of 
much importance as the method of work 
is the same, no matter what pattern or 
style of braid is used, but I will mention 
here the braids most used. 

1st. Point braid very narrow and fine 
for handkerchiefs, collars, dress trimmings, 
tumbler doyleys, etc. There are various 
qualities of point, ranging in price from 
3 to 5 cents per yard. The latter price is 
for the finest and best. The thread for 
point lace should be fine, not coarser than 
No. 400, and for fine work Nos. 500, 600, 
800,' 900, 1,000 or 1,500 can be used. 

2nd. Duchess hraid narrow and wide is 
used for all purposes where a light delicate 



lace is desired. It is sheer, has a little pat- 
tern in it, comes in wide and medium 
widths. Price 5, 6 to 8 cents per yard 
according to width and fineness, used also 
for dress trimmings. Flemish braids are a 
trifle heavier. Threads Nos. 100 to 250 can 
be used with above braids. 

Battenberg braids come in various widths 
known as size 4, 6, 8 or 10, ten being the 
widest and No. 4 the narrowest, this latter 
number is just about the width of point 
lace but much heavier. Thread Nos. from 
80 to 200 can be used with these braids. 

Arabian Braid is a coarse heavy braid 
with a raised cord on one edge and a draw 
string in the other to save overcasting. This 
braid is very popular, and is used for dress 
trimmings, jackets, collars, lunch cloths 
and center pieces. A coarse thread not 
finer than 80 should be used with this braid. 
All braids come in white and ecru. The 
Arabian braids also can be had in the 
natural linen color. 

The Marie Antoinette braids are to ap- 
plique on net. 

All these braids with cords, etc., are illus- 
trated in this leaflet, so you will be able 
to recognize them. 

The thread is an important item and 
should be fine and smooth. "Petit Mou- 
lin" a French linen thread is excellent. On 
silk you can use crochet silk. Tailor 's Hand 
Sewings or Honiton silk as perferred. 

LACE MAKING. 

We now come to the method of making 
lace. 

First a design stamped on cambric or 
silesia is necessary, baste the design on a 
piece of common table oilcloth. This "back- 
ing" is absolutely necessary to secure 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



smooth work and speed, the latter very- 
important. The oilcloth acts as a 
sort of frame to hold the work in 
place and further it prevents the 
work shrinldng in the hand which is sure 
to occur unless it is employed. The 
same piece can be used many times. Stiff 
paper can be substituted, but is not nearly 
so good. After the design is basted on the 
oilcloth you are ready for the next step, 
namely, basting on the braid, and this is 
indeed the most important part of the work, 
for unless this is well done the lace when 
finished will look very badly done. 

Braids with the exception of some fancy 
braids and the Arabian braids are alike 
on both sides. All professional lace makers 
make lace wrong side out, this is not obli- 
gatory but it is considered the proper way 
and it certainly has many points in its 
favor. First it keeps the right side of the 
lace clean, second all rough places, joinings, 
etc., can be better cared for from the wrong 
side, and perhaps as important as all the 
other points combined, there is a gain of 40 
per cent in speed of working. 

In joining braid be sure and lap it well 
over the piece it is joined to, but when two 
parts of a design just touch, see that the 
braid does no more, do not lap one on to 
the other. In turning a figure or point, 
if the sharp turn is made lap the braid well 
down the point to give the sharp turn for 
most designs the mitered turn is preferred. 
When the pattern requires rings, baste 
them in position first, (as often braid 
finishes on a ring.) 

You are now ready to whip or overcast 
the edges of the braid that have become 
fuUed in going around the curves, but first 
a word about these same curves. In bast- 
ing braid hold it easy, do not pull or stretch 
it to make it fit. When going around 
curves their outer edges will require more 
braid than their inner edges and so take 
your basting stitches on the outer edge al- 
lowing the braid a little fullness, if any- 



thing, on this edge, otherwise this part of 
the design will pull out of shape. Of 
course in making this allowance you get an 
extra fullness on the inner edge and here 
is where the overcasting is to be done. For 
this use a fine thread No. 400 is a very sat- 
isfactory size, tie the thread in the edge of 
the braid with the lace knot and overcast 
in every hole in the edge of braid until the 
fullness is pulled flat to the design then 
fasten off the thread with the lace knot. 
Do not overcast edges of braid that are not 
fulled. Every extra unnecessary stitch 
takes just so much from the delicacy of the 
work. It is well to fasten together at this 
point with dainty stitches the joinings of 
braid where two parts of design meet and 
all rings. If you make a practice of doing 
this at one time you will not be apt to miss 
a joining here and there. The order of the 
work will now stand as follows : 

First baste design on oilcloth. 

Second baste braid on entire design. 

Third overcast all fullness. 

Fourth fasten all joinings and parts of 
design. 

Until these points have been completed 
you are not ready to take a stitch, but hav- 
ing accomplished these preliminaries the 
rest of the work is a pleasant pass-time. 

Professional lace makers always plan the 
arrangement of stitches to be used, and the 
portions of design that are a "repeat" 
must be worked alike. When the same 
stitch occurs many times in a design one 
gets along much faster to go over the de- 
sign with that stitch, putting it in all the 
spaces where it is destined to be used. The 
reason is that by working the same stitch 
repeatedly one can do it much more rapid- 
ly and also more evenly. The best workers 
make the design itself first, then put in the 
background stitches. The same stitches 
used in the design should not be used in 
the background, for the latter the Bruges 
stitch, Raleigh bars and spider webs, 
wheels, etc., are preferable. 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



PRESSING LACE. 

The step next after the lace is complet- 
ed consists in pressing the work. Place 
the lace on a soft ironing blanket and with 
a hot iron go over the oil cloth pressing very 
firmly, this prevents the lace pulling out 
of shape when removed from the pattern. 
Lace worked over the oilcloth and pressed 
in this manner will be the same size as the 
design showing no shrinkage. If these 
points are not observed the worker must 
count on a considerable shrinkage and 
all(^w for it especially where a piece of lace 
is desired a particular size ; after the lace 



is removed from the pattern it is again 
pressed, on the wrong side always. 
REflOVINCi THE LACE FROH PATTERN. 

After the lace is finished take out the 
basting stitches that hold the design to the 
oilcloth then with a sharp knife cut down 
between the cambric and oilcloth, cutting 
in this way all the basting stitches that 
hold the braid to the pattern. Pull the 
oilcloth away and with it will come 
most of the basting stitches. This will save 
much time that would otherwise be spent 
pulling out the short cut basting threads, a 
process that is very tedious. 



OTITCHES for lace work are always greatest care so that; the work shall not 
*^ eagerly sought by those who make look bungling. An old rule for lace 
lace; yet a knowledge of a variety of makers, that a knot is in order every 





stitches is of no account unless ____~.^ 
they are perfectly and neatly ^^^^^ 
made. In fact I may say that ;^ 

neatness and daintiness are the 



XS ^ \ . ^ry^X " xr]^ . CJ ^ time a thread is crossed, should 




be observed with caution. Es- 
pecially is this true in laying 
threads for corners, wheels or 





essential requirements for a lace 
maker. Joining of braids, knotting. 



other ornaments, where many threads are 
laid, crossing each other. One can readily 
see what an ugly bunch would be formed 




=S2S 




finishing off, going down the edge of braids 
to gain room for a stitch, all require the 



at the knotting point if this rule were 
followed. In such cases, I lay my threads 



EASYgLESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



across and at the last thread gather all on 

the point of the needle, and knot at once. 

The thumb of the left hand should 

never be idle 
when stitches 
are being 
made, it is 
necessary to 
hold threads 
in place, to 
hold one 
stitch while another is being formed, in- 
deed this left thumb is the whole rank and 






file of lace making implements; you can 

no more dispense with it than you can get 

along without the right 

hand. 

A word here about 

thread for working. 

The petit moulin is the 

best imported thread for 

the purpose I know of, 

and to take the kinks out 

of It, I wax it very lightly. ^^^ Q 

This waxing helps also 

to make the stitch keep its perfect form. 
I have before been 
cautious about 
giving this little 
hint for fear my 
readers would 
"wax too strong"— 
a little is a most ex- 
cellent thing, a bit 
too much is fatal. 
The illustrations of the stitches that 

follow are so plain, very little written 




directions are needed; for myself it is 
much easier to count stitches in an illus- 
tration than to follow the printed matter. 
In all cases 
the thread or 
needle is left 
in position 
and this will 
be found an 
added help. 

Al the 

stitches given here I use in the "opal- 
escent stitch work," which work, by the 




10 




way I was taught to call "Florentine," 
but by whatever name you choose to call 
it, its beauty is undeniable. I have been 
teaching 
and design- 
ing it for 
th ree or 
four years 
for private 
customers 
only. 

Figure 

No. I illustrates method of starting 
foundation row of, simple buttonhole in 
edge of braid. 





Figure No. 2, commence left hand side 
of space, take two medium loose buttonhole 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



stitches in first hole in the edge of braid, hole loop; the needle .s then passed 
pass to next hole or space in braid, leaving through the hole in the braid tmckr the 
a loose loop and repeat the two close thread forming loop; when the stitch is 




stitches. Continue this operation to end 
of space. The second half of illustra- 
tion shows same stitch started in right 
hand margin and worked to the left. This 
is a very effective stitch, used as the 
foundation for working other combina- 
tions, or the rows may be repeated to fill 
space. 






drawn in position the thumb plays an im- 
portant part in holding it in place until 
thread is thrown for next stitch. This 
stitch can be repeated, working from right 
to left; in which case you make a loop 



Figure No. 3 is a rather more elaborate 
stitch, yet as quickly made as No. 2. 
Start at left hand margin, make one simple 
buttonhole loop, do not draw tight, make 
another buttonhole stitch in the same 
space used for first stitch, bring point of 
needle through first stitch, repeat in every 
hole of braid across space. The illustra- 
tion will show how the second buttonhole 
stitch is taken 
through the first. 

Figure No. 4 is 
so plainly drawn it 
needs no further 
instruction, but I 
will say that in 
throwing thread into position for loop, it 
is thrown backward instead of forward, as 
is the case in making the ordinary button- 





with the thread, with one end of loop 
thrown to the left held under the thumb; 
then put needle through loop above bring- 
ing it down through loop held in place by 
thumb, and draw 
carefully in posi- 
tion. 

Figure No. 5 is 
one of the most 
valuable of our 
stitches. Make 
buttonhole loop at 
left margin, work 
back on loop just 
made four button- 
hole stitches, pass 
needle through three of them to the right, 
make another loop in margin of braid and 
repeat. Continue this until you have 




EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



worked to the right hand margin. If you 
wish to apply this stitch to a space, you 
can work back to the left a row of loose 
single buttonhole loops, when the first row 
will be repeated. See Figure 6. 

Figure No. 7 shows this same stitch ap- 
plied to irregular space. 

Figure No. 8, start at left 
margin, tie loop in third 





from one margin to opposite, twist back 
two or three times on the thread, or to 
about the center of space; always hold 
the thread under thumb after twisting 
while taking next stitch in opposite mar- 
gin, twist back as before and repeat. 

Figure No. 10 is a very 
good "ribbon stitch." To 
make: first, start at one 
end of the space to be 




hole in edge of braid, work back on 
this loop four buttonhole stitches, carry 
forward into edge of braid skipping one 
hole, tie thread, work back four button- 
hole stitches, when the right margin is 
reached, carry thread into it on a straight 
line and over-cast down the edge of braid 
to a depth equal to the space occupied by 
the four stitches; now work back to left 
margin and repeat; the trick in making 
this stitch lies in going down the edge of 
braid, as stated above, to give room for 




each successive row; and in working these 
buttonholes to show a little loop at top as 
in illustration. 

Figure No. 9, twisted honey comb for 
narrow spaces. Start this stitch from the 
top edge; in working, carry thread across 



■fflBffi^ffiSSffl 



filled, cross to opposite margin four loops 
or holes in the braid from the button edge. 
Take up the fifth loop on the needle, cross 
to left margin four loops up from last stitch 
on that side, pick up the fifth loop. Re- 
peat this; crossing back and forth until 
space is filled; now work back down the 
space in same manner, taking up the 
middle loops of braid between the stitches 
taken in working up. The last part of the 
stitch is made by knotting a thread down 
the center; pick up the threads where they 
cross and knot. 

Figure No. 11, make foundation row of 
two buttonhole loops in margin of braid as 
shown in Figure 2; working from left to 
right; go back to right working four but- 
tonhole loops in each loop of the preced- 
ing row, work to right again, working two 
buttonhole loops in each of the preceding 
and repeat, alternating a row of 2's with 
a row of 4's. 

Figure No. 12, is worked in same man- 
ner as No. II, except that you start with 
a foundation of one buttonhole loop made 
in every other hole in margin of braid as 
Figure No. i working from left to right; 
go back to left working three buttonhole 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



loops in each of the loops of the preced- 
ing row, and repeat alternating rows of 
I's and 3's. 

- Figure No. 13. Work across edge of braid 
taking a loose buttonhole stitch in every 
other loop or hole in the braid; commence 
always at the right hand edge of braid. 
When the left margin is reached, slip the 
needle through the loop of braid just 
opposite, or on the line with the stitches. 
Now twist back on this row of loops just 
made, putting the needle under each loop 
once; when you have twisted to the right 
margin go down one loop on the braid, 
putting the needle through the loop in the 
braid; work back a row of buttonhole 
loops in each loop of the preceding row 
taking up only one thread. Be careful 
never to work this row of buttonhole loops 



to second space take four close buttonhole 
stitches, repeat to right margin. Twist 











over both threads; leave free the one 
twisted back on. 

Figure No. 13a illustrates another twisted 
stitch much used in old real lace. Com- 
mence at left hand margin one loop down 
side of braid, first buttonhole loop in, tie 
in fourth hole of braid; repeat, take four 
close buttonhole stitches, one in each con- 
secutive hole of the braid. Repeat first 
two stitches, then repeat third stitch. 
This brings you to right margin. Take 
thread straight out through the braid and 
twist back to left margin, when you carry 
the needle down one hole in braid. Take 
two stitches in first space, carry over 
thread, take two stitches in each space 
until right margin is reached, when you 
twist back to left margin. Take one but- 
tonhole stitch in first space, carry thread 





back, repeat. See Figure 13a for forma- 
tion of groups. 

Figure No. 13b is still another twisted 
stitch. Commence at left margin, work loose 
buttonhole in every other hole in edge of 
braid; twist back, taking one twist in each 
loop; work down on braid at left side two 
loops, work across simple loose button- 
hole stitches; repeat till space is filled. 

Figure No. 14. Commence at right mar- 
gin, work to left. First stitch — make large 
buttonhole loop, 
taking the first 
four holes in 
braid; second 
stitch, repeat an- 
other large but- 
tonhole loop 2»5 
taken as the first; third, take three but- 
tonhole loops in succession, one in each 
hole of the braid; carry the needle into 
braid at side edge on a line with the 
stitch, twist back once between each close 
buttonhole loop, and twice between the 
large loops, until you 
have reached the right 
margin; go down one 
space in braid on side, 
work back; work two 
buttonhole stitches, 
one each side of the 
first stitch taken in 
preceding row; take 
another long button- 
hole loop and work 
three close button- 
holes under same kind of stitches in pre- 
ceding row, commencing at the left side 




EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



of the first stitch in this group in upper 
row; you have now reached the left mar- 
gin, twist back as before until you have 
reached the right margin, when the rows 
are repeated till space is filled. Very care- 
ful attention must be paid to the illustra- 
tion, as that 
clearly shows 
the formation 
of the groups. 
Figure No. 
15. C om- 
mence at left 
margin, work 
across, a row 
of loose but- 
tonhole stitches in every other hole in 
braid; go down on the side two holes in 
edge of braid and work back as follows: 
In first loop of preceding row take two 
buttonhole stitches, the first loose and the 
second tight; now take a third stitch at the 
bottom of these two stitches, throwing 
thread backward and putting needle 
through loop formed when the first two 
stitches were made; continue across and 
repeat each row alike. 

Figure No. 15a, illustrates very plainly 
the method of this third stitch around the 
other two. Figure 15b shows still a third 




the other twisted stitches given before, 
and each buttonhole loop is also twisted; 
the twisting is done after the buttonhole 
loop is formed. To twist, put the needle 
up through the buttonhole loop once, which 
will form the twist; proceed and make an- 
other loop, con- 
tinue as before. 
The more times 
the needle is put 
through the loop 
the deeper the 
twist. See Figure 
17 for another 
form of twisted 
loop. 

Figure No. \\ 
Lay mesh dividing spaces in squares. 
Tie thread in margin, twist to first inter- 
section of threads and weave over and 
under three times, twist to next intersec- 
tion of threads and repeat. 

Figure No. 19 is made in the same man- 
ner on an eight- thread mesh; see illustra- 
tion for laying mesh. 

Figure No. 20. In this figure the only 
point to be carefully noted is that all twist- 
ing of threads is carried to the lower mar- 
gin. No other explanation is necessary. 

Figure No. 21. Work a row of very 







variety of this same stitch; the only differ- 
ence between Figure 15a and 15b, is that 
instead of taking one stitch around the 
bottom of the two buttonhole stitches, two 
stitches are worked. 

Figure No. 16 is twisted across as in 



loose buttonhole stitches, tying each one 
in every other hole in edge of braid; work 
from left to right; when the right side is 
reached, go down side edge of braid one 
hole, carry thread back straight across 
to left margin and tie in braid; go down 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



edge of braid one hole and work back a 
second row of loose butonhole loops, catch- 
ing in the thread laid straight across. In 
making this row, put the needle down under 
both the laid threads and the buttonhole 
loop in first row, holding the thread as in 
figure 4 for knot, pull tight and repeat. 
Figures 22 and 23 are a variety of the 





same stitch, except the needle is put up 
through the loop and laid thread instead of 
down ; one and two stitches may be worked 
in each loop. 

Figure No. 24. Commence at point of 
figure at left, make one buttonhole loop 
across top, go down one hole in braid on 
right side and work back three tight but- 




tonholes, carry thread to left margin in 
line with the point you started from on 
right side; go down edge of braid three 
holes, work back a row of two tight button- 
hole stitches in preceding row of three, 
carry thread to right margin down three 



holes, down one hole again ; work back into 
long loop just made three tight buttonhole 
stitches, carry thread across to second long 
loop and work three tight buttonhole 
stitches, cross to left margin of braid, go 
down one hole, go down three holes; 




work to right margin with two buttonhole 
stitches taken into the preceding three; 
carry thread down edge of braid three 
holes, down one hole, and you are now 
ready to work to the left on the third row 
—see Figure 24. 




Figure 34a. A valuable filling stitch, see 
Figure 34b for application. Lay thread 
down center of space, twist back and 
weave the branches as shown in Figure 
34a. In this connection you wiU note that 
three threads are woven over to produce 
the branches or wheat ears. A splendid 
stitch for mount meUick. 

Figure No. 25. Commence at left mar- 
gin of braid in top edge, not down one 
hole on side as is usual ; skip one hole, make 
a loose buttonhole, close beside it in same 
hole make another tied buttonhole loop 



10 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



throwing thread as in illustration; repeat 
to fill space. 

Figure No. 26. Successive rows of loose 
buttonholes. Work from left to right, mak- 
ing two buttonhole stitches in each loop, 
one loose and one tight. 




34a 
To make the knotted buttonhole stitch see 

needle in illustration. 

Figure No. 28. Commence left margin 
of braid, knot thread in braid, skip two 

Figure No. 27. Work from left to right 
row of loose buttonhole stitches. Go down 
right edge of margin one hole in the braid, 
work back to left, making knotted button- 




34b 



hole stitch in each loop of preceding row. 
holes, work three tight buttonholes, repeat 
to right margin, go down on braid one hole, 
work back same as first row. 

Figure No. 29. Groups of single loose 
buttonhole stitches taken on long founda- 
tion loops. The illustration is so clear, no 
trouble will be experienced counting 
stitches. 



Figure No. 30. Work around on inside 
edge braid two rows close buttonhole 
stitches, twist back on second row, com- 
mence center of bottom edge of figure and 
work row loose buttonhole stitches up the 
right side to center or top of figure ; work 
down left side with same thread in cross 
stitch, catching the stitches in buttonhole 
loops. 

Figure No. 31. Work around the figure 
three rows medium loose buttonhole stitches 
twisting last two rows. 

Figures 30 and 31 show only two forms 
of this style of oval filling but there are 
many variations. 




Figure 32. Mesh laid in square once 
crossed diagonally then Avoven back and 
forth on two threads, see Figure 32. 

Figure 35 is made by taking the working 
thread from margin to margin of braid in 
clusters of three, four or five and is an easy 
and effective way of filling a narrow space. 

Figure 36 shows a splendid combination. 
First around the edge of braid work a row 
of Fig. No. 5, next lay in 8 threads and 
weave the English wheel on them. To make 
this wheel weave over and under, first put 
the needle under the first thread then put it 
over the same thread and under the second 
and continue, repeating this until rows 
enough are woven to fill the space as full as 
desired. 

Figure 37 is a combination of mesh and 
buttonhole. Figure 38 shows it in better 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



11 



detail, the left hand side of Figure 37 is the 
same stitch differently arranged. 

This stitch is very effective, making a 
soft lace-like filling for almost any space. 
To work, begin at top of space to be filled, 
work across from left to right in plain 
buttonhole loops until center of space is 
reached when a long loose loop is made, 
after which repeat the regular buttonhole 
loops until the side of the design is reached. 
Work two loops "down the side of braid tak- 
ing the stitch in the edge of the braid; now 
work back buttonhole loops from right to 



Avorked exactly like the cross except that a 
stitch from right to left is taken in every 
other loop of the braid and that each time 
you cross from one side to the other of 
space you twist the stitch two or more times 
according to the width being filled. To 
twist put the needle over the thread and 
pull out straight and firm from you. Do 
this as many times as you desire to twist. 

Figures No. 41 illustrates a simple spider 
web. The best web is made over an uneven 
number of threads. First tie the thread in 
the braid on one margin, carry it across 





left until the long loop you made in the pre- 
ceding row is reached when you will work 
in it five buttonhole stitches ; repeat the 
buttonhole loops to edge of design; repeat 
rows until space is filled. 

I will now give a few of the simpler fancy 
stitches, and the cross is of course the very 
simplest used and is the foundation of 
many more difficult ones. To work, carry 
the thread from you, from right to left 
taking a stitch in each loop of the braid. 

Figure 39 represents this stitch very 
clearly. 

Figure No. 40. Tne honeycomb stitch is 



the space in a straight line and tie in the 
opposite edge of braid, making a regular 
lace knot, pulling the thread toivard you to 
fasten it, twist back on this thread just 
laid, half way or to the center of space, tie, 
carry this thread to a point of the 
margin at a distance from where you 
started, tie in braid, tAvist back on this 
thread to the center then lay the thread to 
another point of the space, continue until 
you have as many threads as desired, 5, 7 
or 9 as the case may be, twisting back to the 
center ever time. When the last thread is 
in you are ready to weave, which you do by 



12 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



tying a knot in the center over all the 
theads, after which weave over and under 
each thread. After the weaving is done the 
needle should be opposite the first thread 
laid in, you will remember only half of this 
first thread was twisted the half on which 



tory for long, curved or straight spaces. 
It fills leaves excellently. 

Figure No. 43 shows the fern stitch. This 
is a little heavier and richer in effect than 
coral and may be used to alternate with the 
former in different spaces. It is also worked 








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41 



you returned to the center, the other half 
has not been twisted and you now twist out 
on this untwisted thread to the edge of 
braid at the starting point where the thread 
is to be fastened off. 

CORAL AND FERN STITCHES. 

These stitches are both worked on the 
cross stitch as a foundation, for the cross 
stitch see Figure 39, work a buttonhole 



39 40 

upon the cross stitch foundation, taken now 
in every other hole on the edge of the braid. 
After the cross stitch is in work the fronds 
of the fern in buttonhole stitch as follows : 
Commence at point of figure in the center 
and work over two threads, putting needle 
under one loop at the right side. Work 
three or four buttonhole stitches over 
these two threads, according to space— this 




stitch in the center, taking one thread 
of the first row of cross stitch and one 
thread of the second row, to buttonhole 
over, proceed — taking each time one old 
thread and one new one, working toward 
you. 

This is a most effective and beautiful 
stitch, it fills rapildy and is most satisfac- 




will bring you close to right hand margin, 
you having commenced buttonholing in the 
center. Now cross to the center down un- 
der the next loop, as you cross from right to 
center leave the thread loose (see cut), 
work from center to left hand margin ; re- 
turn to center one loop lower down and 
repeat. 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



13 



SINGLE POINT DE BRETAQNE 46. 

To work, lay two threads side by side, 
a little distance apart, down the center of 
design, knotting them firmly in edge of 
braid ; where the center vein is curved these 
threads must be fastened to the foundation 
in the desired curve after the foundation 



DOUBLE POINT DE BRETAQNE. 

Figure No. 46. This stitch is worked ex- 
actly like the one just described except that 
the side loops are woven like the center vein. 
Double Bretagne is such a showy stitch that 
it is hailed with delight, and pupils never 
tire working it, indeed, the tendency is to 



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threads are in. Commence at bottom edge of 
design, fasten thread in edge of braid and 
placing point of needle hetween the two 
lines just laid, pull out the right return 
needle point between the two lines and pull 
out to the left, thus weaving over and under 
the two threads for about one quarter of an 
inch ; when the needle is between the two 



45 
reproduce it too frequently in the same de- 
sign. 

Figure No. 47 shows ring fastened to 
braid with twisted threads. Whenever a 
part of design is joined in this way the 
thread must be twisted. 

Perhaps the one thing more than all 
o#iers that is difficult for the amateur lace 




threads carry it down to one side of design 
at a slight angle and take a stitch in the 
loop of the braid, go back to the center 
\ein and carry thread down to braid on op- 
posite side, then return and weave another 
quarter of an inch of the center vein and 
repeat the side loops. 



maker is to make harmonious groupings 
and combinations of different stitches. The 
design should be studied carefully and such 
parts as require the heaviest shading (pro- 
viding you were embroidering) must be 
filled with close stitches. Always surround 
a close worked section with spaces filled 



14 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



with more delicate, laeey stitches, and do 
not use to many different stitches in a de- 
sign. 

Another tiling to avoid is crowding 
stitches; give them room, let each stitch 
-show its full value. Figure No. 5, is often 




utterly ruined by being worked too close in' 
a given space. 

In making the simple shell stitch the 
effect is lost utterly unless the directions 
— one loose, one tight, one loose stitch— are 
observed. Some workers imagine this al- 
ternation of loose and tight stitches make 




no difference in the finished shell, but it 
does. Try the two methods and you ivill at 
once see the great beauty of the shell cor- 
rectly made. 

As I stated previously the entire beauty 
of a lace piece may be utterly ruined unless 
the stitches are pleasingly and harmonious- 



ly combined. There is a right and wrong 
place in every design for the heavy 
and lacey stitches, and the design 
must be kept well balanced. This 
is quite as important as placing 
the shades in embroidery. I consider 
Figures 6, 7,21,22,37, 34a, 24, 29, 25, 27, 26, 
13a indispensible stitches. They can be used 
to fill any shaped space, and can be counted 
on every time to give dignity and grace to a 
design; but I never use them for a back 
ground or filling stitch. I confine them 
exclusively to the working out of the design 
itself. Figures 18, 19 and Figures 32 and 
48 are exceedingly good back ground 
stitches, though any one of the last four 
may be used in the design; when this is 
done it must not appear in the same design 
as a back ground stitch. The reaUy ideal 
back ground stitches are the spider, Raleigh 
bar and Bruges stitches, for this latter see 
figure 48. 

In scroll designs many unusual and irreg- 
ular spaces occur which cannot be well 
filled with mesh stitches. For this purpose 
we have Figures 9, 10, 20, 30, 31, 35. These 
are extremely available and some one of 
them can be used effectively in some portion 
of almost every design. 

In Detail No. 1 I illustrate what I mean 
by proper combination of stitches. In it 
you will find Figures No. 6, 25, 29— a mod- 
ification of Figure 35 — twisted bars in 
groups of three. Figure 33— in the center, 
wheels and spiders as shown in Figure 36. 
The back ground is filled with another 
stitch which I give in detail here in Figure 
No. 49. It consists of carrying threads in 
loose buttonhole loops from one part of 
edge together as for raleigh bars, working 
in the center of each loop a stitch like Fig- 
ure 4. "When the needle is put through the 
loop, the stitch must be pulled tight, you 
then proceed to the next space. This filling 
looks better done with very fine thread. No. 
200 at least. 



Detail No. 2 illustrates another most 
effective combination. The back ground 
IS tilled with Raleigh bars at the bottom part 
of design, the oval forming the base of de- 



altei^iating. One of these stitches is 
further shown in Figures 51 and 52 and is 
made as follows .- 

Commence from the bottom end of figure 




Detail No. 1. 



is filled with Figure la The five 'if . '' *° *''" "«"*' «« down one stitch in 

above thi. space a're filLd w^^tw s«tcht '^^j' 'T ' 'T '"''' ''''''' """"'^''"■^ 

stitcfies stitches, talie one long buttonhole, skipping 



16 



EASY LESSONS FOR LACE MAKERS. 



two of the loops above ; work single button- 
hole stitches to the left edge of braid, go 
down five spaces in left edge of braid, take 
a long loose buttonhole stitch into the long 
buttonhole loop made in preceding row, 
twist the last stitch by slipping the needle 
under the long loose buttonhole thiee times, 
repeat six times, this brings you to the right 
margin of braid. Work back to the left 
margin taking a close buttonhole stitch in 
each of the loops formed in preceding row ; 
this gives ten stitches across the width ; go 



stitch back into the loop above and make 
one more, joining into the edge of the right 
margin of braid on a level with the bottom 
of the loop just made; go down five spaces 
and make fan as directed for Detail No. 2, 
Figure 52 is a variation of Figure 51. 

To make the alternating stitch in Detail 
No. a, work four close buttonhole stitches 
in braid, make two open buttonhole loops, 
skipping one loop in braid between each, 
then four close buttonhole stitches to right 
margin, work down two spaces, bring one 




Detail No. 2. 



down one space in edge of braid, work 
back three small buttonhole stitches in 
preceding row; skip two, making a long 
buttonhole as in the second row, continue 
to right margin with the small buttonhole, 
this completes the fan, and the balance of 
space to be filled is simply a repetition. 
In filling space like Figure 5 1, commence 
in right hand margin, take one long but- 
tonhole loop across to the left margin, 
which gives one loop in this row; go down 
braid two spaces, work one buttonhole 



long buttonhole loop into first open space 
in preceding row, one buttonhole in next 
loop, one long loop over to left margin of 
braid, work down one space on left margin 
of braid, work over the long loose button- 
hole loop just made with close tight but- 
tonhole stitches, go up with one loose 
stitch into small loop left in preceding 
row, come down into next long loop, work 
over it with tight buttonhole stitches and 
repeat till space is filled. 



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